• Costume: Hermés
  • Ralf Würth
Costume: Hermés

In the often-cacophonous world of runway fashion, Christophe Lemaire has mapped out serenity as his stylistic turf. In his second women’s ready-to-wear collection for the leather goods powerhouse, the French designer continued his fascination with humble, Asian-inspired silhouettes, earthy colors, and the most sumptuous fabrics money can buy.

Forgetting the soundtrack of white noise, cricket chirps and Oriental thrumming, this was a whisper-quiet show. Clotted cream came to mind as a group of models milled in one gallery of the Jeu de Paume museum. They were dressed in Mao jackets, pleated skirts and loose robes with kimono sleeves – all in the supplest of leathers, meaty linens or crisp cottons.

  • Ralf Würth