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  • Gustavo Lins & Roger Vivier
  • Ralf Würth
Gustavo Lins & Roger Vivier

Gustavo Lins has geometry on the brain. From cocoonlike reversible jackets with ribbed knit sleeves to a masculine riding coat, the Brazilian designer’s collection reflected his training as an architect. Lins brought innovative touches to his tailored pieces that did not immediately meet the eye, such as a pleat nestling in the small of the back of a black suit jacket. He let loose for evening with long white silk pinafore dresses embellished with broad calligraphy brushstrokes.

Rendez-Vous: Taking a darker turn, Roger Vivier creative director Bruno Frisoni channeled intellectual rock ‘n’ roll types like Keith Richards, designer Ann Demeulemeester and her muse Patti Smith for the house’s limited-edition Rendez-Vous line. The feel, though, was still pretty deluxe. Heels came sheathed in gold chain mail or sprouted shocks of black feathers at the toe like a punk Mohawk, while textured clutches carried more feathers, as well as chain-embroidered panther prints and springy beds of crystal beads. Meanwhile, the house also unveiled its new garnet-hued crocodile Doctor’s Bag with a ruthenium clasp.

  • Ralf Würth